Byrska, Kos, Orska, Życka – four women in jewelry industry.
Where do they get their strength and inspiration to create and how they find themselves in the industry where men prevail? Let me introduce, Magpie – four Polish designers: Edyta Byrska, Dorota Kos, Anna Orska i Anna Życka that is four strong chicks who are not afraid to get their hands dirty in the workshop, they can capture femininity in jewelry and have their own characteristic style.
Edyta Byrska (byrska)
“Previously the designer’s job was done only by men, but now it’s significantly changing. It is a very natural state, because jewelry is mostly worn by women and we know best what we like to wear.”
FB: @byrska.pracownia.bizuterii | IG: @edytabyrska
Strength, own style, expressiveness. Sensitivity to beauty, head for business and self-employment – how do you manage to combine them? Does being a woman help or hinder in jewelry industry?
My brand was created from the passion of creating in metal and fascination with the craft. When I started the adventure with the jewelry, I wasn’t even thinking about setting up my own business or anything that goes with it. I admit that at first I had no idea about the models of sales, marketing, taxes, invoices and offices. Ready or not, I had to quickly catch up… and jumped into the deep end.
Frankly, I do not like this part of my job, if I had the choice, I’d rather take care of just creating. However, self-employment also has many advantages. I only do own projects and do not have to comply with someone’s tastes. I would have never undertaken creation of jewelry which I would consider ugly or poorly designed. I appreciate this freedom, as well as the possibility of managing my own time.
Sometimes I laugh, that “my boss” is too demanding, nasty perfectionist. This is another thing you need to work out in yourself. When there’s no one above you and there is no control over your work. You have to impose self-discipline, because coping with yourself is the most difficult.
Today is a great moment for women in jewelry industry. Previously the designer’s job was done only by men, but now it’s significantly changing. It is a very natural state, because jewelry is mostly worn by women and we know best what we like to wear. I myself am testing every piece I do, check if it fits well, looks good and nothing irritates when wearing.
I personally usually meet with positive reception from the older male generation of goldsmiths. A wide smile helps in both male and female company.
Does your femininity give you strength? Where does it come from?
In the first place I try to make my jewelry delicate and feminine, so you can say that femininity is an inspiration to me and the main theme of my work. It gives me drive for design and creation.
Who do you admire in the industry? Will you tell me about them?
For me, the modern master is absolutely and indisputably Ilgiz F, Russian artist creating unearthly projects (with a perfect use of enamel), referring to Art Nouveau. I am also inspired by German Kabirski, Judith Kaufman, Alexander Monroe, Tania Manerova, Todd Reed and many others. I appreciate most of those designers who do not follow fashion blindly, but give something own and original.
Tell us something about your collection…
In my collection Polish Flowers I wanted to capture the charm and delicacy of plants, reproduce in silver the beauty that dies quickly in nature, and in such form may survive for many years. My jewelry gives women who wear it a girlish lightness, refreshes their beauty regardless of age. I try to make my jewelry not an object that is quickly forgotten as fading flowers, but I want it to serve the owner for many years.
Jewelry from this collection is made of silver with the use of traditional goldsmith techniques. Most of the trinkets is created by me from beginning to end: from melting metal to cutting, shaping and final finish. Some models have natural precious stones: topazes, citrines, rubies.
I try to make each piece unique, so that it is something special for the future owner.
What do you think about Magpies from Pica Pica?
It’s good that finally in Poland a blog devoted only to jewelry, promoting knowledge about its creators, technological processes and industry events has been created. I think we needed something like it. It’s nice to see that Magpies are spreading their wings so fast and I wish you all the best. Keep up the good job.
Dorota Kos (DOROTA KOS JEWELLERY)
“Jewelry I offer is very delicate, romantic. I can’t imagine it could’ve been designed by a man.”
FB: @DOROTAKOSjewellery | IG: @dorota_kos
Strength, own style, expressiveness. Sensitivity to beauty, head for business and self-employment – how do you manage to combine them? Does being a woman help or hinder in jewelry industry?
At first it wasn’t easy to reconcile so many activities. Creative work is possessive. Organizing the production, many tasks related to the company – this all sometimes seemed beyond my strength. I didn’t manage to avoid some mistakes.
From the start of my work I had this great dream to work on my own. I have a great need of freedom. Otherwise, I get lost.
Luckily, some time ago I managed to work out a system of work and control various activities. The boring and tedious tasks let you find distance, humility and learn discipline.
Motivation to work are the spark in the client’s eye and the fact that the objects leaving my workshop find a new life. They give joy and adorn.
Does being a women hinder me in the industry? There are many women with strong personality. Moreover, jewelry I offer is very delicate, romantic. I can’t imagine it could’ve been designed by a man.
Does your femininity give you strength? Where does it come from?
I get strength from health and life in harmony. The joy of small things. I have this luck that I live in the suburbs, at the sea, near the woods. I can restore my balance any moment by walking on the beach, watching ships entering the port. Sea is my reference.
Who do you admire in the industry? Will you tell me about them?
The works I admire the most in the industry are the ones of old masters, usually anonymous. I capture details that are close to my sensibility. There would be a lot of examples. The dearest ones are Art Nouveau and Art Deco. Apart from the sophisticated designs, precious materials, I admire peerless workshop and inspirations from nature. I pay attention to this jewelry because of the sculptural forms, rich in texture subtle combination of gold with precious stones, and color combinations.
Tell us something about your collection…
The biggest inspiration for me is the world of plants. I’m fascinated by all their complex nature, the mysterious functions they serve, and of course their beauty. My collections include the plant motifs – apple tree petals, forest berry twigs, chamomile, they all are associated with romantic memories, fleeting moments. Contact with plants gives me endless inspiration. Collections are created simultaneously. I sometimes do something in one and then in the other.
On the one hand, I need to create a minimalist, calm compositions but there come moments when I’m amused by creating intricate, decorative forms.
All pieces are formed by hand, usually in wax, then I refine them in silver. I pay special attention to the texture, so that jewelry plays with light sparkling in a characteristic way.
What do you think about Magpies from Pica Pica?
For many years there was a need for a site with a modern and at the same time professional guide to the industry. I like the fact that there is a variety of information, relations, interviews and that you are not focused solely on Polish brands. It’s pleasing that the editors are not accidental individuals, but carefully selected, well-educated ones. I keep my fingers crossed for Pica Pica and I wish you success.
Anna Orska (ORSKA)
“You can’t be an expert in every field, so it is equally important to realize your weaknesses. If I don’t know something I work with people who are better in it from me.”
FB: @ORSKA.bizuteria | IG: @orska_official
Strength, own style, expressiveness. Sensitivity to beauty, head for business and self-employment – how do you manage to combine them? Does being a woman help or hinder in jewelry industry?
I’ve never thought about it. I think it doesn’t matter much in today’s world. I work with both many women and men and get along with them all. The truth is that the most important things are working with people and understanding of the business. Of course you can’t be an expert in every field, so it is equally important to realize your weaknesses. If I don’t know something I work with people who are better in it from me. This way I can focus on the things I do best and develop as a designer. So I manage to keep my head free from technical issues and go forward with what I find most important.
Does your femininity give you strength? Where does it come from?
I think I draw most from the action. Both successes and failures are motivating. Success brings joy and desire to strive for the next one. Failures teach humility, but also challenge to keep trying, to overcome them, and turn them into success. Each day is filled with bigger and smaller challenges. They never end, so I am always motivated to keep the pace and act with the same energy. It stimulates my personal development and development of the ORSKA brand the most.
Who do you admire in the industry? Will you tell me about them?
People I admire are not strictly connected to the goldsmith world. I of course keep fingers crossed for young designers who bring a new breath to the industry. But I have the utmost admiration for craftsmen, people who are able to devote their whole life to perfect mastery of a skill. At the moment my greatest fascination are travels, when I got to know many craftsmen, masters of traditional manufacturing working in different parts of the world.
Each year I launch two collections that are designed and manufactured in distant lands, among foreign cultures. I have already worked in several workshops in India, Nepal and Bali island and I still have plans and challenges to take. I am really impressed by and truly admire the craftsmanship of craftsmen who hone their skills since childhood, passing them from generation to generation. The workshops I visit and where I work don’t resemble factories and workshops I had a chance to see in Poland, Europe, Asia and Brazil. Those workshops run by one or a few people achieve master’s precision in their expertise! I think that my admiration for those places is justified. It is an unbelievable experience.
When meeting with such devotion to master the technique one thinks that in goldsmith industry in Western sense we have much easier job, since we have regular access to many automated technologies and highly educated specialists.
Tell us something about your collection…
A few years ago I created Berry collection and I develop it constantly adding new designs to it. All projects in the collection are inspired by nature. I drew my ideas primarily from the small pieces of plant, such as leaves, buds or seeds, which were cast in brass in the shape of the natural prototypes. For me nature is a great source of inspiration. Natural, floral motifs elegantly balance my very distinct style, giving my projects a pleasant lightness and freshness.
What do you think about Magpies from Pica Pica?
I met Magpies a couple years ago at the beginning of their existence. We got to know each other better during two weeks of Art&Fashion Forum in Old Brewery. I remember our conversations and plans including you we were then sketching together. It was a fabulous time. I can safely say that my heart’s growing when I look at how you develop and realize your dreams. And by the way, you are real Magpies and never change that.
Anna Życka (ANNA ZYCKA JEWELLERY)
“My job is craftsmanship and art combined and this job is often a physical work.– damaged hands, full of chemicals and dirty dust.“
FB: @AnnaZycka | IG: @anna_zycka_jewelrydesign
Strength, own style, expressiveness. Sensitivity to beauty, head for business and self-employment – how do you manage to combine them? Does being a woman help or hinder in jewelry industry?
It is never easy when sensitivity has to go hand in hand with determination and entrepreneurship. These contradictions can, however, support and drive each other. Most important for me, in the jewelry industry where men prevail so far (in particular in Polish market), is to be myself and consequently pursue my goal. My job is craftsmanship and art combined and this job is often a physical work.– damaged hands, full of chemicals and dirty dust. Despite that fact there are more and more of us and we aren’t afraid of craftsmanship to create what our hearts tell us.
Does your femininity give you strength? Where does it come from?
We are strong by nature, we only have to find it in us and know our value. Then nothing can stop us on our way.
Who do you admire in the industry? Will you tell me about them?
There are a couple of artists who are important to me. I admire them for being themselves in their art, not blindly following trends, but consequently put pieces of them in what they create. You look at the object and know immediately whose workshop it left. This is what is most important for me and what I aim for.
Tell us something about your collection…
I find the majority of inspirations in nature so there are so many flowers, leaves, feathers in my works. They alone are a perfect design. You only have to transfer them on metal. Glass enamels are for me what watercolor is for the painter, but more durable. I paint with them, use their transparency and conquer the difficulties of the technique with great passion.
What do you think about Magpies from Pica Pica?
Crazy, dreamers full of ideas with heads for business and ability to deal with a difficult and demanding environment. That is strong women this world needs.
