Dopamine jewelry – interview with Ania Posłuszny of pérl designs

Foto: Arty Hard Works Modelka: Diana Morais
When during the lockdown she first started experimenting with a DIY jewelry kit and her mom’s pearls, she never imagined a fun hobby would turn into a full-blown brand. Straight from Paris and Lisbon, the custom-made necklaces by Ania Posłuszny are a jewelry play on the dopamine dressing trend. Alongside elegant, classic pearls – colorful beads, wooden shapes, and pop smiley faces. In essence – Parisian nonchalance with a hefty pinch of Portuguese energy. Pieces from pérl are designed to make us feel unique even in a plain white T. I talked with Ania Posłuszny, founder of pérl designs, about her career change from the luxury industry to independent fashion, the charm of pearls, and the concept of circular jewelry.
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I have to admit, when I first read about you, I couldn’t help but think of “Emily in Paris”! I mean, you found yourself in the French capital, at a prestigious textile company working with high fashion brands, and then – after a sudden turn of events, and you set up your own jewelry business. This could easily be the plot of a tv show! So, my first question is, why was “Anna in Paris”? And what were some of your most important experiences before the birth of pérl?
Wow! I’ve never thought of it like that because it was a tough and demanding job. Though indeed, co-designing textiles for brands like Lanvin, Sonia Rykiel, Balmain, or Givenchy is a fashion and career dream-come-true! But let’s start from the beginning – I went to the south of France for 2 months to learn French and … 13 years later I’m still here. Why did I decide to stay? Perhaps I wanted to challenge myself. Or perhaps it was intuition. In any case – I don’t regret it. I’ve fallen for France, and it seems the feeling is mutual! After my language course, I returned to Poland only to collect the rest of my belongings and then immediately flew to Paris to search for a job.
Have you always wanted to work in fashion?
Fashion seemed the obvious choice to me; after all, Paris is the fashion capital of the world. Besides, despite my degree in diplomacy, I’ve been professionally involved in the fashion industry for years. Fate seemed to be on my side, as I quickly found a job – at that textile company you’ve mentioned already. I started to represent it on the French market. It was a business designing hand-made and technically intricate embroideries and sew-on patches from various materials, beads, pearls, and threads. That’s how “Ania in Paris” began. While it may sound like the plot of tv series, this position involved a lot of stress: projects to get done “yesterday,” price negotiations, overtime. Of course, there was also a fair amount of “glamour” – fashion shows, invitations to private events, or simply the opportunity to mingle with the best in the business. My fondest memory is of my cooperation and meetings with the late Alber Elbaz, the then creative director of Lanvin. He was such a warm, respectful, and kind man. I definitely took a lot away from this job, like technical experience in preparing a collection, the ability to work under immense pressure, and, most importantly I think, an easygoing attitude towards fashion, to not take it too seriously. Be professional, of course, but fashion is first and foremost fun and, in a sense, an extension of our personality, not just a business.
Articles about your brand mention not only Paris but Lisbon. How do you divide your life and work between the two – beautiful yet different – cities? I have a sneaking suspicion it’s the Portuguese energy and openness that is “to blame” for the color, ease, and humor of pérl’s creations (laughter)!
Although Paris is my main place of residence, I was personally drawn to Lisbon, and I generally spend the summer months working from Portugal. I’ve established two separate ateliers in both cities and, depending on where I am, that’s where the jewelry gets made. Yes, Lisbon’s definitely had a great influence on the colorful vibe of the pieces. Especially the multicultural environment, the openness, and the laid-back lifestyle of its inhabitants. Actually, all pérl’s photoshoots are organized in Lisbon. The architecture and, above all, the incredible light of the city make the pictures naturally beautiful, so that there really is no need for additional filters of any kind. And that’s one of the most important messages of my business. Uniqueness, to me, is naturalness, with all of its imperfections – much like with pearls.
Tell me a bit more about the beginnings of pérl. Was there a classic “aha moment” or was it rather a process? When did you first think to yourself “I’ll be a jewelry maker” and how did the road from idea to the first sold necklace look like?
At one point, I started to feel burnt out. I craved some time to focus on myself, to lead a more relaxed lifestyle, and to be independent. So, I left the textile company we talked about. While it was hard to abandon the clients with whom I’ve established friendly relationships with, I felt free! Back then, I was already fascinated by local fashion for some time. Even when I was working in the luxury industry, I invested mainly in independent labels, often from Poland. I got so into local fashion, I launched a blog and Instagram account dedicated to it. Shortly after, the pandemic broke out. During the first lockdown I ordered a DIY jewelry kit, just for fun, with which I made what later turned out to be the prototype of the first pérl necklace! Then, when the world slowly began getting back to normal, I received numerous compliments and enquiries about where I got my necklace. That’s when I had a lightbulb moment. Everything fell logically into place: my passion and love for handmade accessories, colorful beads, and pearls; young, local fashion … somehow, I’d been accidently conducting my first market research!

Foto: Arty Hard Works Modelka: Diana Morais
Let’s talk about your signature product, the eponymous pérl! Where does your fascination with pearls come from? What, to your mind, is special about them?
I associate pearls with my mother, who would always wear them in their classic version. I inherited a couple of necklaces from her, which for years lay unused in my jewelry box. Creating my first model, I deconstructed one of them, combining the pearls with colorful beads and I was immediately taken with the contrast between the classic and the modern. That’s when I appreciated how fascinating as well as versatile pearls can be. Throughout centuries, kings and queens loved them – from Cleopatra to Elizabeth II – and now celebrities like Pharrell Williams and Harry Styles are reaching for them, too. They can be easily incorporated into your look – be it elegant or sporty, for work or a party, glam or fun! Pearls are a true miracle of nature. Each and every pearl is absolutely unique – formed by mollusks as a result of a protective mother-of-pearl layering around an unwanted irritant inside them. Basically, it’s how mollusks, like oysters, defend themselves against a foreign body – they build a pearl. Imperfect, but unique. What a beautiful metaphor and life lesson!
Your brand communication heavily stresses the positive power of your jewelry. The optimistic color palette of the elements you combine with pearls perfectly encapsulates the post pandemic trend of dopamine dressing. Where did you get the idea for this aesthetic and material selection?
I believe that by accessorizing, with jewelry for instance, you can have fun with fashion, color, texture, or patterns, which is why pérl’s collections are a mix of different raw materials, often oversized. I use semi-precious gemstones such as jade, agate, quartz, aquamarine, as well as ceramics and, what has become pérl’s trademark, wooden shapes. Apart from this, it’s all about contrast – glass teddy-bear-shaped beads, ceramic frogs, toucans or fruit-shaped elements. I also pay a lot of attention to the source of the materials. For example, some of the glass beads are made by young Bulgarian craftsmen using the lampwork method; the wooden elements, in turn, I hand-pick in my secret Japanese boutique near Paris; clasps and other semi-finished products are produced on demand in a family-run factory in southern Poland.
- Foto: Arty Hard Works Modelka: Diana Morais
Pérl creations aren’t solely for women – you also show your colorful pearl necklaces on men. And many pieces are listed as unisex. Are men wearing jewelry a given in Paris and Lisbon?
Absolutely! In both cities bling isn’t assigned to one gender. This is especially true for Lisbon. I was actually inspired to add a longer option for men when a friend asked me to make such a smiley necklace for him. And I have to say, it was a home run! I’m thrilled that pérl gives people the opportunity to express themselves, break social norms, and boost their confidence – regardless of their gender.
Presently, people are becoming more and more aware of the negative impact of overconsumption on the environment. We no longer want to renew our entire wardrobe every season, and we take greater care of our stuff, fixing rather than throwing them away or selling/exchanging what we don’t want to keep. You’ve perfectly recognized this increased eco consciousness in consumers by creating for pérl a Circular Fashion offer. You provide your clients the option to modify and restore their pérl jewelry.
Circular Fashion is a natural extension of the sensible practices I try to follow in life. In this case, I was inspired by the history of classic pearl necklaces, which, like pérl pieces, used to be strung on a silk thread. Due to its nature, over the course of use the thread would stretch out; therefore, annual exchanges were advised. I thought to myself, this could work now, too. Consequently, each pérl customer can get their thread exchanged once a year, free of charge. A second option within Circular Fashion is “redesign.” Clients can change the look of their pérl necklace for about half the price of a new item. In each situation, the result is essentially a new jewelry piece, without excess consumption or overproduction. Through such services I hope to inspire people to make more sustainable purchases as well as build a stronger, long-term relationship with them. I’d also like pérl products to be more than a one-season accessory, to last years with my customers, growing and maturing with them.
So far, the cornerstone of pérl were your signature playful experiments with a jewelry “classic,” i.e., the pearl necklace. However, we have it on good authority that you have a new product in the works, and an upcycling one at that!
Apart from necklaces, you can also find my version of pearl earrings in pérl’s offer. But I wanted to take that a step further. I’ve been into vintage clip-on earrings for years, from time-to-time remaking some for my own use, adding pearls, so that they would pair well with pérl’s designs. As with that first pérl necklace, wearing these clip-ons out and about got me countless compliments. Here, out of something for pure fun came an idea I decided to share with others. So, I now scour Parisian and Lisbon second-hand stores in search for clip-on earrings, clean them, drill holes (if need be), and add various combinations of pearls, as a cherry on top. It’s also a nod towards those pérl customers who do not have pierced ears or simply prefer clip-ons. And the vintage and upcycling aspect is another small contribution towards more sustainable fashion. I firmly believe that together, step by step, we can change the world!

Foto: Arty Hard Works Modelka: Diana Morais
pérl designs

Foto: Arty Hard Works Modelka: Diana Morais