Gold jewelry – that means what?
If in the Family Feud the host would ask „dear Magpie, what materials are used to make jewelry?” it would probably be gold in the first place and in the second – silver. Both answers are basically correct, but slightly not precise.
Before I elaborate on this idea, let’s think for a moment what materials might take the next positions on the list. Wood, pebbles, shells – the materials from which the first ornaments were made centuries ago? Bronze, glass and ceramics? Something more “modern” – plastics, resins, concrete?
Those surely wouldn’t be horse manure, human milk or condoms – the materials used once by the artists participating in Legnica Goldsmith contests.
Let’s go back to the first two positions. Why, dear Magpie, are the answers from “Family Feud” unprecise? Well, they could suggest that jewelry is made from pure metal, which usually isn’t true.
Metal alloys.
While centuries ago jewelry made of pure gold or silver was not uncommon, then after the invention of metal alloys, it has become a rarity.
What is this all about? The answer is quite simple – both pure gold and pure silver are too soft materials. Perhaps, Magpie, you’ve seen scenes in the movies, where gold coins were checked with teeth – yes, they are so soft that you can leave a teeth mark on them!
The invention of metal alloys made goldsmiths’ work easier – it allowed to introduce new goldsmith techniques while the already known ones became easier. The goldsmiths’ products became more resistant to damage which in turn made wearing them easier for the people.
And so the gold alloys with silver and copper (also with nickel or palladium in white gold alloys) and silver alloys with copper were invented.
It is the additions in metal alloys that significantly increases the durability of goldsmith products and facilitates their treatment. Their proportions determine the physical properties and color! With the invention of alloys, it was necessary to determine the content of the main component. We want to know how much of the precious metal there is in its alloy! Otherwise it would lead to abuse or fraud.
Gold and silver hallmarks
This need led to the standardization of the content of gold and silver in the alloys. And so at the moment for gold there are the following official hallmarks (some examples): “750”– contains 75.0% of pure gold; “585”– contains 58.5% of pure gold; “333”– contains 33.3% of pure gold.
The gold content in the alloy can also be specified with carat (not to be confused with carats determining the weight of precious stones!), where 1 carat is 1/24 of the weight of gold in the alloy (a few examples): gold 24-carat – 1000 hallmark (by definition, in fact it’s 999 or 999.9); 18-carat gold – 750 hallmark; 14-carat gold – 585 hallmark; 8 carat gold – 333 hallmark.
The most common trade purity of gold is “585” (14 carats) and “750” (18 carats). Silverware usually has 925 hallmark containing 92.5% of pure silver.
Alloy properties
There are some popular opinions regarding the properties of individual hallmarks of gold or silver. “It is said,” that 585 gold is much harder than 750 gold, this is true – it is a little harder, but if you count, Magpie, that the possession of gold jewelry of lower fineness exempts you from being cautious and caring for these pieces, you are very wrong. None of the gold alloys in contact with the concrete wall (for example) is safe. While working with tools, weeding the garden, during workout on the machines you should take off the rings from your fingers.
If you, Magpie, have any doubts or questions – go ahead and write, I will answer your questions in the comments below the article.