Timeless – 30 years of Chanel luxurious watches

7 April 2017

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Let’s talk about watches. While not everyone likes earrings, bracelets or rings, a watch is a piece of clothing that almost always hits our jewelery shelf (if not bought by you, it is certainly the one you got for the Holy Communion!).

The history of watches dates back to 16th century. Initially, they were worn on chains, then in the pockets, to finally decide that their most suitable place would be the wrist, but it should be remembered that it was a male wrist. A watch became for men what diamonds and pearls were for women – a synonym of elegance, luxury and sophistication.

At the beginning of the twentieth century the feminist revolution came along with clothes borrowed from men’s wardrobe. Designers began to fit trousers or suits to female silhouettes, but as you can see the watch remained the same – the clock face, two hands and a strap.

In 1987 Chanel designers decided to create the first watch that would be dedicated exclusively to women, but it was not about feminizing the classic design, but creating something completely new and innovative from the scratch. That’s how Premiere came to be –- the first women’s watch that Coco Chanel would not be ashamed of.

photo Premiere Chanel watch designed in 1987

Premiere was not just to measure time, just like most Chanel products it carried a beautiful story behind it. Instead of a classic round clock face, a rectangle with beveled sides appeared – a motif known from the famous No5 perfume bottle, more specifically its cap, which took the shape of Parisian Place Vendome – the place where the story of Chanel was born. It was here at the Ritz Hotel that Gabrielle Chanel lived and created and today there is the brand’s key store and Karl Lagerfeld’s studio on the third floor. The new watch has gained a unique clock face, but instead of the classic strap there was the cult 2.55 purse chain. This is the brand’s first watch inspired by a woman.

photo Place Vendome and Premiere Chanel watch

From the very beginning Chanel was a brand that primarily intended to respond to the needs of women. At the beginning of the twentieth century, Coco created comfortable pants and blouses so that the beautiful sex could finally feel at ease. In 1987, when the work on the watch began, the first key question that designers asked was whether the woman wanted a classic watch or a form of jewelery.

The answer was clear, they had to create something that would be primarily a stylish accessory designed with the use of the best Swiss technology. This strategy, which was planned in 1987, continued for the last 30 years, all these efforts to bring fashion and technology even closer together.

There is another aspect that the brand has never forgotten – tradition. Each successive model of the watch was, in a way, a tribute to the most iconic Chanel elements, which had long entered the pop culture – quilting, chain, camellia, pearls and ribbons.

While creating Premiere the designers saw a modern, elegant woman with red lipstick, in 2000 it was decided to give up this delicacy. Then the model J12 was introduced to the market, with much more temperament. The new watch was designed for energetic women who like a fast and sporty lifestyle. The round clock face was adorned with a ceramic, quilted bracelet that conducted heat better than metal. The first model of the watch was only available in black – the color worshiped by Gabrielle Chanel, but after 3 years, its more innocent, white version was released..

photo J12 Chanel watch

Since 2005 the designers have decided to add the classic swivel mechanism (Tourbillon) to the brand watches. Similarly, as before, the intention was not to merely copy the motif, but to adapt it to the female wrists. This is how the famous diamond camellia motif came into being, a kind of “scaffolding” that covers the rotating cage. The so far classic, minimalist clock face has been enriched with a floral motif that will be developed in later years.

The main purpose of Chanel designers was to accentuate the aesthetic function of the watches. They were not only meant to expose the mechanism and tell the time, but serve the woman as a form of jewelry. In 2012, following this thought, the first line of watches was released, which was supposed to balance on the verge of fashion and art.

The center of interest for the creators has become the clock face and what can be presented by it. Mademoiselle Prive is a line designed for art lovers – in the collection the antique carving techniques, silk threads, pearls or incrustations were used. Everything to show that the watch can also be a small work of art.

photo Mademoiselle Prive Chanel watch

In 2017 r. Chanel is celebrating 30th anniversary of introducing watches to Haute Horlogerie market. It became a pretext to design a new cult model of Premiere, but this time to fit the 21st century woman.

New generation Premiere, whose inauguration took place at the BaselWorld fair in Switzerland combined all of Chanel’s accomplishments. The original, minimalist clock face was replaced with a diamond camellia that covered the rotating mechanism. The whole was wrapped in a classic envelope, whose frames made Premiere a reminiscent of a framed work of art. Such extravagant interior was neutralized by a black leather strap.

Who is the watch dedicated to this time? To a woman in love with technology, looking for a bit of anant garde in classics and who values vintage fashion. To you, Magpie.

fot. Chanel Premiere Camelia Skeleton 2017