Gold, tulips, AI – a report from the spring edition of IJS Istanbul Jewelry Show
IJS Istanbul Jewelry Show is one of the five largest industry gatherings in the world, but for me it is not the scale that defines the uniqueness of the Turkish show – it is the program and the atmosphere. What makes the fair stand out is its remarkably multidimensional overview of gold jewelry design and technology, the balance between promoting innovation and traditional craftsmanship, its strong roots in local tradition, and a number of valuable educational initiatives. It is time to sum up my visit to the spring edition of IJS Istanbul Jewelry Show, where I had the pleasure of being a guest from April 1 to 4, 2026.
This edition of IJS Istanbul Jewelry Show (the fair takes place twice a year – in spring and autumn) surprised many participants with its excellent attendance. The jewelry industry, like any business, is watching the escalating conflict in the Middle East with concern. Despite the travel and logistics difficulties related to the situation, IJS reported strong results: the show welcomed more than 21,000 visitors, and over 1,300 exhibitors presented their work at the Istanbul Expo Center. As David Brough of Jewellery Outlook noted, the fair unfolded in a constructive “business as usual” spirit, with the optimistic context of the meeting being the round 40th anniversary of IJS.
Gold has many faces
I truly appreciate how important the promotion of the local jewelry scene is within the mission of IJS. The fair in Istanbul is the best opportunity to get to know the Turkish jewelry industry – and for any jewelry expert it is a must. After India, China, the USA and Russia, Turkey is one of the largest jewelry markets in the world. The central theme here is undoubtedly gold. IJS shows just how diverse this category has become today. At the fair I saw (and touched!) kilogram bars of pure gold, pieces worth hundreds of thousands of euros, but also innovations and projects expanding the possibilities of the market at more accessible price levels. Demand for lower-karat gold jewelry is growing – at the fair I saw many interesting proposals in 14-karat gold. I also kept an eye out for motifs characteristic of local creators. During conversations with designers in the Designers Club, I was fascinated by jewelry incorporating elements made from carved stones. In the new collections presented by exhibitors, I also noticed a recurring tulip motif – interpreted in many different aesthetics. It is a symbol deeply rooted in Turkish culture, associated with spirituality and perfection (the Arabic script of the divine name resembles the shape of the tulip’s cup). As part of the new IJS Academy initiative, I also had the chance to discover traditional jewelry-making techniques from the inside.
AI and jewelry
Despite its strong roots in local culture and tradition, IJS Istanbul Jewelry Show maintains a global level, and the fair’s program addresses the most relevant topics for the industry today. At the booths of exhibitors from more than a dozen countries, alongside a broad overview of gold jewelry, visitors could also see diamond jewelry, a rich selection of gemstones, and a well-supplied packaging section. One of IJS’s strong suits is the area dedicated to machinery and technology – in the corridors people talked a lot about the quality of this section. The Istanbul fair also features numerous educational projects. Alongside IJS Academy, the most prominent is “Art for Jewellery: Inspiration Hub”. This platform for knowledge exchange hosts engaging discussions and presentations, including those developed in collaboration with the prestigious trendwatching agency WGSN. I had the pleasure of joining the program as a speaker in the discussion “AI in Jewelry Design: Shaping the Future”. The conversation was moderated by the one-and-only David Brough, and my fellow panelist was Cem Terzihan. The conclusions? We discussed the evolving role of designers in the jewelry industry, and the speakers also pointed to potential new positions that may emerge in response to the possibilities created by AI. Cem highlighted that significant differences will appear in how AI is used in the mass market – where automation will dominate – and in the luxury sector, where the value of human creativity and craftsmanship will be further strengthened. In my view, in design work AI will become a tool, an assistant, leaving creators room to excel in areas such as sensitivity, style, intuition, and the ability to give meaning.
To sum up: once again, IJS Istanbul Jewelry Show impressed me with its perfect balance between celebrating local tradition and actively exploring the future of the industry on a global scale. I am always moved by the hospitality and energy I experience every time I visit Istanbul. Şermin Cengiz, Founding Partner of the Turkish fair, said in an interview for Blingsis: “In our 40th year, our goal remains the same: to add value to the sector, lead innovations, and bring professionals from around the world to Istanbul, guiding global jewellery trade. For 40 years, the heart of jewellery has been beating in Istanbul, and we will continue to carry this light into the future.” Congratulations to the organizers on this beautiful anniversary – the next milestone is already approaching. The autumn edition of IJS, taking place on September 30 – October 3, 2026, will mark the 60th edition of the show.
